Shakespeare’s Juliet wondered, “What’s in a name?” Clearly, Juliet wasn’t in the restaurant business, as names seem to be the primary concern of those vying for restaurant dollars.
Due to a lawsuit by an out-of-town plaintiff, Wildfires Bar ‘n’ Grill in Thornton Park recently changed its name to Wildsides. And just as we were wiping our mouths at Woodstone Grill, we discovered, due to litigation by nearby Stonewood Tavern, that the Italian restaurant in Sand Lake was to be renamed Vines Grille.
Due to a lawsuit by an out-of-town plaintiff, Wildfires Bar ‘n’ Grill in Thornton Park recently changed its name to Wildsides. And just as we were wiping our mouths at Woodstone Grill, we discovered, due to litigation by nearby Stonewood Tavern, that the Italian restaurant in Sand Lake was to be renamed Vines Grille.
In an area dominated by high-profile restaurant giants, Vines is surprisingly cozy, an intimate space with probably no more than two dozen tables. Several of them overlook the open kitchen and its large charcoal grill, a rotisserie filled with crispy chickens rotating slowly above. Former tenant Stallone’s used the grill and ovens for brick-oven pizzas and casual specials, while Vines goes the more upscale route, offering a full menu of steaks and seafood.
In an area dominated by high-profile restaurant giants, Vines is surprisingly cozy, an intimate space with probably no more than two dozen tables. Several of them overlook the open kitchen and its large charcoal grill, a rotisserie filled with crispy chickens rotating slowly above. Former tenant Stallone’s used the grill and ovens for brick-oven pizzas and casual specials, while Vines goes the more upscale route, offering a full menu of steaks and seafood.
The meal began with a huge and beautiful platter of roasted mussels ($9.50), the broth seasoned with shredded red peppers that were still crunchy. Vines’ substitute for pizza is flatbread. My order of the garlic prawn variety ($9.50) looked wonderful, the thin, charred bread from the oven, with a spicy tomato sauce and some jumbo prawns nicely placed on top. But the center of the bread was soggy and soft, impossible to pick up by hand.
The meal began with a huge and beautiful platter of roasted mussels ($9.50), the broth seasoned with shredded red peppers that were still crunchy. Vines’ substitute for pizza is flatbread. My order of the garlic prawn variety ($9.50) looked wonderful, the thin, charred bread from the oven, with a spicy tomato sauce and some jumbo prawns nicely placed on top. But the center of the bread was soggy and soft, impossible to pick up by hand.
No fault could be found in the entrée of Filet Jumeau ($22.50), two succulent, perfectly cooked steaks wrapped in bacon and dressed in wine-soaked mushrooms.
No fault could be found in the entrée of Filet Jumeau ($22.50), two succulent, perfectly cooked steaks wrapped in bacon and dressed in wine-soaked mushrooms.
Young Vines is a restaurant of appearances, like flatbread – beautiful to look at, but not yet past the soggy mid-stage.
Young Vines is a restaurant of appearances, like flatbread – beautiful to look at, but not yet past the soggy mid-stage.
One of my favorite restaurants in New York is a place called Peasant, which has chicken slowly roasted in a charcoal oven, and the sight of those birds in Vines made my mouth water with a memorable anticipation. This free-range bird ($16.50) turned out a little dry, though the deep flavors were spot on. The rice accompaniment listed on the menu has mysteriously been replaced by rosemary mashed potatoes; as I had also ordered the a la carte mashed potatoes, I wish the overworked waiter had caught the duplication.
One of my favorite restaurants in New York is a place called Peasant, which has chicken slowly roasted in a charcoal oven, and the sight of those birds in Vines made my mouth water with a memorable anticipation. This free-range bird ($16.50) turned out a little dry, though the deep flavors were spot on. The rice accompaniment listed on the menu has mysteriously been replaced by rosemary mashed potatoes; as I had also ordered the a la carte mashed potatoes, I wish the overworked waiter had caught the duplication.
Although outgoing and attentive when given the chance, only two servers were present that evening, and the request sometimes slipped their minds. I think service delays account for a lot of the flaws.
Although outgoing and attentive when given the chance, only two servers were present that evening, and the request sometimes slipped their minds. I think service delays account for a lot of the flaws.
It’s a good space, and hopefully the potentially great food will get Vines through the opening jitters.
