Tired of chain steakhouses? Try this alternative to Fredericksburg bigwigs.
By Alice Levitt
When I moved to NoVA, someone told me the only good steakhouses are the chains. Fortunately, that’s not true. Yes, the landscape is dominated by the big guys, but they don’t rule exclusively. A case study is Fahrenheit 132, an idiosyncratic specimen in Fredericksburg.
The steakhouse is the brainchild of owner and general manager Cole Berlin, who also happens to be a certified sommelier. It means six years of wine spectator awards, including one this year, as well as an interesting collection of cocktails. The list includes a maple-smoked Boulevardier and one called Ticket to Thailand, which combines aquavit, Thai basil and chilies, honey-ginger syrup, fresh lime and candied ginger.
But meat in all its forms is the core. I tasted the venison carpaccio, which is pictured above. The black that borders the intense red streak is leek ash, giving it a pleasant charred smoke. It is presented with buttery crostini, ideal for stacking the sylphish slices of meat, a little garlic Dijon emulsion, fried capers and micro-celery leaves. Most steakhouses focus their entree menu on seafood. At Fahrenheit, turf is the center of attention, including snail presented in a marrowbone, pork cheek sliders and lollipops of American lamb.
And the steaks? Executive Chef Jackson Flint strives to source cuts from Virginia-born cows when he can. Servers ask if diners want the crusty steaks in his signature. Dark. Although the gentle blend of herbs and spices doesn’t detract from the beef’s flavor, when combined with 1800 degrees of the grill, it gives it an appetizing crust. Each cut, from $26 sirloin to $69 bone-in strip, comes with a choice of two sides. The ultra-creamy rosemary mashed potatoes are a safe bet, as is the creamy Tuscan cabbage, smoky with the addition of chunky bacon bits. Yes, it’s the kind of place where even the vegetables are flavored with elements that once walked around. That’s a steakhouse.
318 William Street, Fredericksburg
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